Iron horse bike frame full#
Many shocks on the market are actually incapable of attaining damping rates low enough to take advantage of the traction and efficiency advantages of the system's full potential. This will give you a good indication if you need to go with a stiffer spring etc. Start with my baseline and work from there. Correct spring rate and the correct internal shock tune are going to make the biggest difference. what will give me the best small bump sensitivity? Low spring rate, low air pressures in the reservoir, zero to 2 clicks of Pro-Pedal, or all of the above?Īns: The DHX and 5th respond differently to tuning. The difference in spring WEIGHT and unsprung mass equates to about the same difference as removing the 18T cog only from your rear cassette.Ĥ) Once I have the linkage torqued to spec. Spring rate is a measurement of force/distance. With a DHX and an 06-07 Iron Horse tune on Sunday and 7POINT, crank that bottom out all the way closed.īottom out shouldn't affect preload, only ProPedal will affect that, and not too much.ģ) Since I'm switching to Ti, will this effect the "observed" spring rate that you feel when you ride it? In other words if a steel and Ti spring are listed as the same spring rate, will the Ti feel more progressive due to material or spring winds? (Maybe not necessarily your area of expertise, but I'd be interested in your take on it)Īns: Spring rate is identical with ti and steel. I actually had a prototype shock that went 5.25 turns in, the black hex was 2.5mm indented from the face of the blue cap, and it felt unreal. We found no noticeable decrease in small bump sensitivity on the Iron Horse tune shocks with the bottom out cranked all the way in. That may work well for you.Ģ) You were saying I could run the Bottom Out at 100% turned in and this won't effect small-bump sensitivity? So maybe I could stay with a 300# spring, decrease the pre-load and run the Bottom Out at 100% ?Īns: The 06' Development League ("The D.L." - Lars Tribus, Dave Smutok, Len Hornidge) and I spent a couple weeks in Whistler evaluating shocks and dialing in tunes on all of the 07 bikes this summer. You can try a 5th bottom out bumper like Dave suggested too. It’s a balance that is not the same for every rider's style, but typically you want to go for the lightest spring possible without huge bottoming problems. More spring will let you use less damping to try to control the wheel. If you are having bottoming problems, then you may want to explore the 350 and see how it works for you. I think Heikki Hall is running a 300 still, and he is about your weight. Would this spring rate be too high?Īns: At your weight, you could probably go with either a 300 or 350. I will re-post and reorganize the info and try to condense things to make searching more expediant and useful.įor example: Need a new lower link, or the hardware to mount it?ġ) I was thinking of going to a 350# Ti spring, but I wanted to have the most supple travel and small bump sensitivity possible w/o bottoming out (I race a lot). OK, so either I've been spending too much time alone on the internet, or the jpegs of info I posted here during the last presidency have degraded in quality due to site upgrades.
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and what's with all of these empties of PBR?
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someone really needs to trim these hedges.
![iron horse bike frame iron horse bike frame](https://mountain-bikes.club/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Iron-Horse-Unity-31-275-Mens-Mountain-Bike-Large-Frame-Size-Grey-IH3816L-0-3.jpg)
Jesus - I haven't been here since the summer of 2008? No wonder I can't see the entrance any more - it's covered in ivy. (*footsteps are heard followed by the sound of a person tripping over a metal bucket then falling down a flight of stairs*) (*the figure steps in, the door closes then total darkness*)